After saying goodbye to continental Europe, we left Normandy, traveling first to Paris and then onward to Edinburgh, Scotland, marking the beginning of a new and eagerly anticipated chapter of our journey. Our time in Scotland began in the best possible way—with the warm hospitality of our dear Scottish friends, Maggie and Gordon White, whom we had met the previous year on the Camino Francés.
They welcomed us into their beautiful new home in Kilconquhar, a peaceful village just north of Edinburgh, where rolling green fields, stone cottages, and quiet country lanes immediately introduced us to the gentle rhythm of Scottish rural life. Evenings were filled with conversation, shared meals, and laughter, and their generosity made us feel less like visitors and more like family. It was the perfect setting to slow down, reconnect, and ease into our Scottish adventure.
From this inviting base, they guided us through some of the country’s most iconic highlights. We explored ancient St Andrews, with its medieval cathedral ruins, storied university, and windswept shoreline that reflects centuries of Scottish history. Later, they led us into the heart of Edinburgh, where the dramatic skyline of the Castle, the Royal Mile, and the elegant Georgian terraces revealed the cultural and architectural richness of Scotland’s capital.
St Andrews, set along the windswept coast of eastern Scotland, is a town where medieval history, academic tradition, and coastal beauty come together in a uniquely harmonious way. Founded more than a thousand years ago, it grew around the shrine of Saint Andrew, Scotland’s patron saint, and became one of medieval Scotland’s most important religious and pilgrimage centers. The vast ruins of St Andrews Cathedral, once the largest church in the country, still dominate the skyline and reflect the town’s former spiritual power and influence. Nearby, the dramatic cliff-top remains of St Andrews Castle overlook the North Sea, recalling centuries of political intrigue, royal ambition, and religious conflict, including key moments of the Scottish Reformation.
In 1413, the establishment of the University of St Andrews—the oldest university in Scotland—transformed the town into a lasting center of learning and intellectual life. For more than six centuries, its colleges, courtyards, and historic quadrangles have shaped the character of the town, blending scholarly tradition with everyday life. Students from around the world continue to walk the same narrow streets and stone pathways, giving St Andrews a youthful energy alongside its ancient foundations.
St Andrews is equally renowned as the “Home of Golf.” The legendary “Old Course”, stretching along the edge of the sea, is one of the most celebrated and historic golf courses on earth. Its iconic Swilcan Bridge, rolling fairways, and deep bunkers embody centuries of sporting tradition. Whether viewed by devoted golfers or casual visitors, the Old Course remains an enduring symbol of St Andrews’ global legacy—where history, sport, and coastal landscape meet.
On another day, we traveled along the Fife coast to the harbor town of Anstruther, where we embarked on a boat trip to the Isle of May. Long used as a fishing port and ferry point, Anstruther has deep maritime roots and remains closely tied to the North Sea. Its working harbor and traditional fish-and-chip shops reflect a way of life 
shaped by generations of fishermen and seafarers.
The Isle of May, lying at the mouth of the Firth of Forth, has a long and fascinating history. Once home to medieval monks and later used as a place of pilgrimage dedicated to Saint Adrian, the island became strategically important over the centuries. In the 19th century, it was developed as a lighthouse station, helping guide ships safely through the busy shipping lanes leading to Edinburgh and beyond. Today, the island is best known as a national nature reserve, famous for its seabird colonies, including puffins, guillemots, and razorbills. Its rugged cliffs, historic lighthouse buildings, and sense of isolation create a remarkable blend of natural beauty and human history.
After returning to the mainland, we continued on to the nearby fishing village of Crail, one of the best-preserved medieval towns in Scotland. With origins dating back to the 12th century, Crail grew as a royal burgh and trading port, known for exporting wool, fish, and salt across the North Sea. Its charming harbor, narrow streets, and stone houses reflect centuries of coastal life, while landmarks such as the parish church and old town walls hint at its historic importance. Today, Crail retains a peaceful, timeless atmosphere—an idyllic stop that perfectly captures the character of Scotland’s east coast villages.
In the 18th century, Edinburgh experienced a sweeping transformation during the Scottish Enlightenment. Philosophers, scientists, architects, and writers turned the city into one of Europe’s great intellectual centers. The elegant Georgian New Town, designed with broad avenues, neoclassical facades, and symmetrical squares, symbolized a new era of rational thought and urban planning. This bold expansion earned the city its famous nickname, “the Athens of the North.” The contrast between the tightly packed Old Town and the airy New Town remains a striking hallmark of Edinburgh and is recognized today as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Culturally, Edinburgh is a city shaped by scholarship, creativity, and tradition. It is home to world-renowned festivals, including the Edinburgh International Festival and the Fringe, the largest performing arts festival in the world. Scottish literature, from Robert Burns to Sir Walter Scott and Robert Louis Stevenson, finds deep roots here, as do long-standing customs reflected in music, storytelling, and the city’s historic pubs.
Edinburgh Castle, perched atop the volcanic crag of Castle Rock, is one of the most iconic and historically significant fortresses in Scotland. Its commanding position has made it a natural stronghold for over 3,000 years, with archaeological evidence showing human occupation long before recorded history. By the early Middle Ages, the site had become a royal residence, and from the reign of David I in the 12th century onward, it served as the principal fortress of Scottish kings and queens.
The castle has witnessed many defining moments in Scottish history. It endured repeated sieges during the Wars of Scottish Independence, served as a military garrison, and safeguarded the nation’s most treasured symbols, including the Honours of Scotland—the oldest crown jewels in the British Isles—and the Stone of Destiny, used for centuries in the coronation of Scottish monarchs. Structures within the castle walls, such as St. Margaret’s Chapel, the oldest surviving building in Edinburgh, and the Great Hall, reflect the layers of royal, military, and political life that once filled the fortress.
The Royal Mile, stretching from Edinburgh Castle to Holyrood Palace, is the historic heart of Edinburgh and one of the most atmospheric streets in Scotland. Lined with medieval tenements, narrow side alleys called closes, and centuries-old landmarks, it reflects the rich cultural and political life of the Old Town.
Just below Edinburgh Castle stands The Hub, a striking Victorian Gothic building crowned by the tallest spire in the city. Originally constructed as a church, it now serves as a vibrant festival and arts center, playing a central role during Edinburgh’s world-famous cultural festivals. As visitors continue down the Royal Mile, they soon arrive at St Giles’ Cathedral, the 14th-century High Kirk of Scotland and one of the most significant religious and historic landmarks in the country.
St Giles’ Cathedral has been at the heart of Scottish religious and civic life for centuries, closely associated with the Scottish Reformation and the preaching of John Knox in the 16th century. Its distinctive crown-shaped steeple is one of Edinburgh’s most recognizable symbols, rising above the Old Town skyline. Inside, the cathedral reveals a richly layered history through its chapels, memorials, and stained glass, most notably the exquisite Thistle Chapel, home to the Order of the Thistle, Scotland’s highest order of chivalry. Together, these elements make St Giles’ a powerful reflection of Scotland’s spiritual, political, and cultural heritage.
Nearby is The Scotch Whisky Experience, an engaging museum dedicated to Scotland’s national drink. Through 
interactive exhibits and guided tastings, we learned about whisky-making traditions from across the Highlands, Lowlands, Islay, and Speyside. Our experience included a look at one of the world’s largest collections of Scotch whisky and offers tastings that highlight the distinct regional styles, making it a popular and informative stop along the Royal Mile.
Farther along, the street widens into the Lawnmarket and the High Street, home to traditional shops, historic buildings, and the Writers’ Museum, which celebrates Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Louis Stevenson. The Royal Mile is also filled with hidden closes—such as Lady Stair’s Close and Real Mary King’s Close—that reveal layers of Edinburgh’s medieval past.
Canongate Kirk, located near the eastern end of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, has served as the parish church of the Canongate since the late 17th century. Built in 1688, it has long been associated with Scotland’s royal and civic life due to its proximity to Holyrood Palace. Members of the royal family, including King Charles III when he was Prince of Wales, have worshiped here, reinforcing the kirk’s strong royal connection. Inside, the church features royal pews, historic regimental memorials, and simple yet dignified architecture, reflecting its enduring role as a place of worship closely tied to Scotland’s monarchy and national history.
The bottom of the Royal Mile is anchored by Holyrood Palace, the official residence of the British monarch in Scotland and one of the most historically significant royal sites in the country. Originally established 
in the 12th century as an Augustinian abbey by King David I, the complex gradually evolved into a royal residence, with successive monarchs expanding its halls, towers, and ceremonial rooms. The palace’s elegant façade and spacious courtyard reflect centuries of royal architecture and political influence.
The palace is most famously associated with Mary, Queen of Scots, who resided here between 1561 and 1567. Her private apartments remain among the most atmospheric rooms in Scotland, and it was within these walls that key events of her tumultuous reign unfolded—including the dramatic murder of her secretary, David Rizzio, an incident that deepened political unrest and shaped the course of Scottish history.
Adjacent to the palace stand the evocative ruins of Holyrood Abbey, once one of medieval Scotland’s most important religious centers and the site of royal coronations and weddings. Its broken arches and open sky offer a stark contrast to the polished interiors of the palace.
Today, Holyrood Palace serves as both a working royal residence and a place of national ceremony, hosting official events and state functions. Surrounded by manicured gardens and framed by the rugged cliffs of Arthur’s Seat, it forms a majestic gateway between Edinburgh’s urban history and the natural beauty of Holyrood Park.
Thank you, Maggie and Gordon, for making this such an unforgettable visit. From the beautiful accommodations and your thoughtful, expert guiding, to the fantastic food, drink, and lively conversations that filled every evening, you made us feel completely at home. Most of all, we are grateful for the laughter, the stories, and the genuine camaraderie we shared. Your warmth and generosity turned our time in Scotland into a memory we will treasure forever.