León’s history stretches back to Roman times, when the city of León was founded as a military encampment. Over the centuries, it blossomed into the capital of the Kingdom of León, a major Christian stronghold during the Reconquista. The region played a pivotal role in the formation of modern Spain, with its kings leading the charge in the efforts to reclaim the Iberian Peninsula from Moorish rule.
León is renowned for its architectural marvels. The Gothic León Cathedral, with its towering spires and stunning stained glass windows, is often considered one of the most beautiful in Spain. The Basilica of San Isidoro, a masterpiece of Romanesque architecture, houses the Royal Pantheon, known as the “Sistine Chapel of Romanesque Art” for its exquisite frescoes.
The region’s cultural heritage is equally rich. The city of León boasts a vibrant arts scene, with museums, galleries, and festivals celebrating its historical and contemporary contributions. The MUSAC (Museum of Contemporary Art of Castilla y León) is a highlight, showcasing cutting-edge works in a striking modern building.
León’s diverse landscapes provide ample opportunities for outdoor enthusiasts. From the rugged peaks of the Picos de Europa to the verdant valleys and rolling plains, the region is a paradise for hikers, bikers, and nature lovers. The Las Médulas, an ancient Roman gold-mining site and UNESCO World Heritage Site, offers a fascinating glimpse into the region’s geological and historical wonders.
For pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago, León is a significant and welcoming stop. The city’s rich history, spiritual heritage, and warm hospitality make it a highlight of the journey. The Camino Frances, the most popular route of the pilgrimage, passes through León, providing pilgrims with a chance to rest, reflect, and rejuvenate. The city’s albergues (pilgrim hostels) and historic inns offer respite and camaraderie, continuing a tradition of hospitality that dates back centuries.
Day 21 Shagun to El Burgo Ranero
Departing Sahagún, we crossed the Puente Canto bridge over the Río Cea, officially entering the province of León. This stretch marked the geographical halfway point of the Camino Francés, a significant milestone for many pilgrims. Sahagún itself was once a powerful monastic and cultural center, home to the influential Benedictine Monastery of San Benito, which played a key role in shaping the region’s medieval history.
The path followed the Camino Real Francés, a straight, tree-lined route designed to offer some respite from the sun. The Meseta’s flat, open terrain made for a contemplative walk, with golden fields stretching endlessly in all directions. Pilgrims for centuries have followed this same route, often pausing for rest in the few villages along the way.
One such stop was Bercianos del Real Camino, historically linked to the Knights Templar, who once protected pilgrims traveling through the region. The village, like many others in this area, retains its traditional adobe architecture, a reflection of the Meseta’s long-standing building techniques.
Reaching El Burgo Ranero, we found a quiet village that has catered to pilgrims for generations. Its tranquil setting, with a small pond that attracts migratory birds, provided a peaceful atmosphere for reflection. The village’s long-standing connection to the Camino made it a fitting place to rest before continuing the journey toward León. Click on thumbnail to view images
Day 22 El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla De Las Mulas
Leaving the quiet village of El Burgo Ranero, we continued along the Camino Real Francés, a long, straight path bordered by poplar trees. The route remained flat and open, characteristic of the Meseta, with fields of wheat and sunflowers stretching to the horizon.
Midway, we passed through Reliegos, a small village known for its bodegas, traditional underground wine cellars carved into the earth. These structures, used for centuries to store wine at a constant temperature, are a testament to the region’s deep-rooted agricultural traditions.
Arriving in Mansilla de las Mulas, a town historically significant as a medieval trading hub, we were greeted by remnants of its old defensive walls, a reminder of its strategic importance. Once a bustling center for merchants and pilgrims, the town’s name reflects its history—Mansilla meaning “hand on the saddle” and mulas referring to the mules that were vital to trade and transport. Today, it remains a key stop for pilgrims, offering a blend of historical charm and modern comforts before the final stretch into León. Click on thumbnail to view images
Day 23 Mansilla De Las Mulas to Leon
Departing Mansilla de las Mulas, we crossed the final stretch of the Meseta, where the rural landscape gradually gave way to the outskirts of León. The path followed remnants of the ancient Roman road, once a vital trade route linking this region to the rest of Hispania.
Along the way, we passed through small villages like Villamoros de Mansilla and Puente Villarente, the latter known for its long medieval bridge over the Río Porma. This crossing was historically significant for pilgrims, as the river was once a formidable obstacle before the bridge’s construction.
Approaching León, we noticed the shift from pastoral tranquility to urban energy. León, founded as a Roman military encampment in the 1st century BCE, later became a powerful medieval kingdom and a crucial center along the Camino. The city’s skyline was soon dominated by its masterpiece—the 13th-century León Cathedral, renowned for its vast stained-glass windows, among the finest in Europe.
After days of walking through remote countryside, arriving in León felt like a return to civilization. The city’s historic quarter, filled with lively plazas, tapas bars, and architectural treasures like the Basilica of San Isidoro and Casa Botines, provided a vibrant contrast to the solitude of the Meseta. With its deep pilgrimage traditions and rich history, León offered a perfect place to rest and prepare for the journey ahead. Click on thumbnail to view images
Day 24 Leon Rest Day
The León Cathedral, also known as the Santa María de León Cathedral, is a masterpiece of Gothic architecture located in the city of León, Spain. Construction began in the 13th century, during the reign of King Alfonso X, on the site of ancient Roman baths and an earlier Romanesque church. 
The cathedral is renowned for its stunning stained glass windows, which date from the 13th to the 15th centuries and are among the most extensive and beautiful in the world. Often referred to as the “Pulchra Leonina,” meaning the “Beautiful Lioness,” the cathedral exemplifies the French Gothic style with its three grand portals, an impressive rose window, and twin towers that soar above the city. Over the centuries, the León Cathedral has undergone numerous restorations to preserve its structural integrity and artistic splendor. It remains a significant religious and cultural landmark, drawing visitors and pilgrims from around the globe.
As one of the key stops along the Camino Francés, the most popular route to Santiago de Compostela, the cathedral serves as both a spiritual and physical landmark for pilgrims. Its awe-inspiring architecture and serene atmosphere offer a place for rest, reflection, and prayer. Historically, the cathedral has been a beacon of faith and a symbol of the religious fervor that drives the pilgrimage. The magnificent stained glass windows, depicting biblical scenes and saints, inspire pilgrims and remind them of the spiritual journey they are undertaking. Click on thumbnail to view images
Day 25 Leon to Villar De Mazarife
Leaving the medieval charm of León, we passed through the city’s historic quarter before crossing the Bernesga River and gradually entering the suburbs. The transition from urban streets to open countryside was a reminder of the Camino’s ever-changing landscapes.
Rather than following the busier highway route through La Virgen del Camino, we opted for the quieter, more scenic alternative toward Villar de Mazarife. This path took us through tranquil farmland, offering a peaceful contrast to the bustle of León.
Along the way, we passed small villages like Fresno del Camino and Oncina de la Valdoncina, where centuries-old adobe houses and small chapels reflected the region’s deep agricultural and pilgrimage traditions.
Arriving in Villar de Mazarife, a quiet village with strong ties to the Camino, we found a welcoming atmosphere. Historically, this route was favored by pilgrims seeking a less commercialized path toward Astorga. The village’s rural setting, surrounded by wheat fields and grazing lands, made for a restful stop before continuing westward. Click on thumbnail to view images
Day 26 Villar De Mazarife to Astorga
Leaving Villar de Mazarife, we continued across the open countryside of León, following a peaceful rural path that bypassed the busier highway route. The landscape remained vast and agricultural, with fields of wheat, corn, and sunflowers stretching under the expansive sky.
We passed through small villages like Villavante before reaching Hospital de Órbigo, home to one of the most impressive medieval bridges on the Camino—the Puente de Órbigo. This 13th-century bridge, spanning the Órbigo River, is linked to the legendary jousting tournament of 1434, when a knight, Suero de Quiñones, defended its passage in a chivalrous test of honor.
Continuing westward, we gradually ascended into the foothills of the León mountains, marking the transition from the flat Meseta to more varied terrain. The walk became more scenic as we approached Astorga, a town rich in history and a key crossroads where the Camino Francés meets the Vía de la Plata, an ancient Roman route from the south of Spain.
Astorga, once an important Roman settlement known as Asturica Augusta, retains remnants of its imperial past, including city walls and ruins of Roman baths. It is also famous for the Episcopal Palace, designed by Antoni Gaudí, showcasing his distinctive architectural style. Known for its chocolate-making tradition and mantecadas (sweet pastries), the town provided an inviting mix of history, culture, and local flavors—a rewarding end to the day’s journey.
The Astorga Cathedral, officially Catedral de Santa María de Astorga, is a striking example of Gothic architecture with Renaissance and Baroque influences. Construction began in 1471 on the site of an earlier Romanesque church, and the cathedral was gradually expanded over the centuries. Its elaborate twin towers and richly decorated facade reflect the evolving artistic styles of the period. Inside, the grand altarpiece, designed by Gaspar Becerra in the 16th century, is a masterpiece of 
Spanish Renaissance sculpture. The cathedral also houses a museum with religious artifacts, including a collection of manuscripts and paintings from the medieval and Baroque eras.
Designed by the renowned Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí, the Palacio Episcopal de Astorga is one of his few works outside Catalonia. Built between 1889 and 1915, it was commissioned after a fire destroyed the previous bishop’s residence. The neo-Gothic structure, resembling a fairy-tale castle, features pointed turrets, stone archways, and Gaudí’s signature blend of fantasy and functionality. Though originally intended as a bishop’s palace, it now houses the Museo de los Caminos, a museum dedicated to the Camino de Santiago, displaying historical artifacts related to the pilgrimage. The building’s whimsical yet solemn design contrasts with Astorga’s medieval surroundings, making it a fascinating architectural landmark.
Both the Astorga Cathedral and the Palacio de Gaudí are integral to the Camino de Santiago, enriching the spiritual and cultural experience of the pilgrimage. These landmarks not only provide places of rest and reflection but also connect pilgrims with the rich historical and artistic heritage of the region. Click on thumbnail to view images
Day 27 Astorga to Rabal Del Camino
Leaving Astorga, the landscape began to change as we ascended gradually into the foothills of the Montes de León. The flat terrain of the Meseta was now behind us, replaced by rolling hills, oak groves, and small stone villages. This stage marked the transition from the agricultural heartland to the more rugged and historic mountain paths of the Camino.
Our first stop was Murias de Rechivaldo, a village with traditional Maragato architecture—stone houses with wooden balconies and red-tiled roofs. The Maragatos were an isolated ethnic group of muleteers who played a vital role in Spanish trade during the Middle Ages, and their cultural influence is still present in the region.
Continuing west, we passed through Santa Catalina de Somoza and El Ganso, two small villages with deep Camino roots. El Ganso, in particular, is known for La Casa de los Dioses, a rustic pilgrim rest stop founded by a devoted traveler who once lived there.
The path gradually steepened as we approached Rabanal del Camino, a historic stopping point for pilgrims before the climb to Cruz de Ferro. In the Middle Ages, the Knights Templar provided protection for pilgrims here, and their legacy remains in the town’s ancient stone buildings. Today, Rabanal is a peaceful village with a strong pilgrim tradition, offering a quiet place to rest before the journey into the mountains. Click on thumbnail to view images
Day 28 Rabal Del Camino to Molinaseca
Leaving Rabanal del Camino, we began the steep ascent into the Montes de León, a rugged and historic section of the Camino. The early morning air was crisp, and the path wound through heather-covered hills and scattered oak forests, offering stunning views as we climbed toward one of the most iconic landmarks of the pilgrimage—the Cruz de Ferro.
Standing at 1,504 meters (4,934 feet), Cruz de Ferro (Iron Cross) is a simple iron cross atop a weathered wooden pole, surrounded by a large mound of stones left by pilgrims. Tradition dictates that travelers bring a stone from home and place it at the base, symbolizing the burdens they wish to leave behind. This ancient ritual, possibly dating back to Roman times, made this a deeply reflective and moving stop along our journey.
From there, the path descended sharply toward Manjarín, home to one of the last remaining Templar refuges on the Camino. The rustic albergue, run by modern-day guardians of the pilgrimage, added to the medieval atmosphere of this remote outpost.
The descent became more demanding as we navigated steep, rocky trails through El Acebo and Riego de Ambrós, two picturesque mountain villages with slate-roofed houses and stunning valley views. The final stretch led us to Molinaseca, a charming town nestled along the Río Meruelo. Its medieval stone bridge, Puente de los Peregrinos, and traditional stone houses made for a welcoming sight after the challenging descent. This historic village, once a key rest stop for medieval pilgrims, remains one of the most beautiful and peaceful stops on the Camin. Click on thumbnail to view images
Day 29 Molinaseca to Villafranca Del Bierzo
Leaving Molinaseca, we walked through the outskirts of Ponferrada, one of the largest cities along the Camino. This historic city is home to the Castillo de los Templarios, a well-preserved 12th-century fortress built by the Knights Templar to protect pilgrims traveling to Santiago. Its imposing walls and towers stand as a reminder of the region’s medieval past.
Beyond Ponferrada, the Camino led us through rolling vineyards, as we entered the heart of the Bierzo region, known for its excellent Mencía wines. Villages like Camponaraya and Cacabelos, both with deep viticultural traditions, lined the route, offering opportunities to sample the local flavors.
A steady climb took us to Villafranca del Bierzo, a picturesque town nestled in a valley surrounded by mountains. With its cobblestone streets, historic churches, and the famous Iglesia de Santiago, this town has long been a key stop for pilgrims. The church is unique in that it has a Puerta del Perdón (Door of Forgiveness), allowing sick or injured pilgrims to receive a special blessing and complete their pilgrimage spiritually if they are unable to continue to Santiago.
With its welcoming plazas, scenic riverfront, and rich history, Villafranca del Bierzo provided a perfect place to rest before the challenging mountain ascent ahead. Click on thumbnail to view images
Day 30 Villafranca Del Bierzo to Herrerias De Valcarce
Leaving Villafranca del Bierzo, we entered a dramatic landscape of steep valleys and lush greenery as we approached the foothills of the Galician mountains. This stage of the Camino followed the narrow Valcarce River valley, with the towering peaks of the Montes de León rising on either side.
Pilgrims have two route options from Villafranca: the traditional road path that follows the river or the more strenuous Camino Pradela, a steep climb offering breathtaking views. I followed the mountainous route, because that is where my App took me and at the top I was off-route in the middle of the forest. I headed downhill on the first road I found and called Bob to pick me up in the taxi.
Arriving in Herrerías de Valcarce, a small village at the base of the climb to O Cebreiro, we found a peaceful setting with traditional stone houses and grazing livestock. This village has been a stopping point for centuries, as pilgrims prepare for the demanding ascent to one of the Camino’s most iconic mountain passes. Click on thumbnail to view images
Day 31 Herrerias De Varcarce to O Cebreiro
This stage marked one of the most challenging yet rewarding climbs of the Camino. Leaving Herrerías de Valcarce, the path immediately began to ascend into the misty mountains of Galicia. The trail wound through lush chestnut and oak forests, passing the small hamlets of La Faba and Laguna de Castilla, the last villages in the Castile and León region before crossing into Galicia.
The ascent to O Cebreiro, at 1,300 meters (4,265 feet), is one of the most iconic climbs on the Camino. The village itself is a beautifully preserved medieval settlement with traditional pallozas—round stone huts with thatched roofs, remnants of pre-Roman Celtic architecture.
O Cebreiro holds deep spiritual significance for pilgrims. The Iglesia de Santa María la Real, dating back to the 9th century, is home to the famous Miracle of O Cebreiro, a legend in which a consecrated host turned to flesh and wine to blood during a disbelieving priest’s Mass.
With its breathtaking panoramic views and rich history, O Cebreiro was a rewarding and memorable stop, offering a sense of arrival as we officially entered Galicia, the final region on our journey to Santiago. Click on thumbnail to view images
