As we embarked on our journey to the West Coast Trail on Vancouver Island, we couldn’t help but feel an overwhelming sense of excitement and anticipation. This trail has been on our bucket list for years, and finally, we were joined by our son Eric. We boarded a shuttle bus from Victoria to the trailhead near Bamfield, BC, where we met up with Jonathan, Lindsey and Amy our hiking companions.
The West Coast Trail, also known as the WCT, is a 75 km (47 mi) hiking trail that stretches along the rugged and scenic coastline of Vancouver Island. Originally used as a telegraph line in the late 1800s, the trail was then used by the Canadian government as a life-saving trail for shipwrecked survivors along the treacherous coastline. In 1973, the West Coast Trail became a part of the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve, and it has since been a popular destination for hikers from all over the world.
After checking in with the ranger at the Pachena Beach trailhead, we started on the trail, ready to immerse ourselves in the wonders of the rugged west coast. As we followed the trail along the shoreline, the ebb and flow of the tides played a vital role in shaping our path. With the tide out, we were able to use the rugged coastline, marveling at the intricate tidal pools teeming with vibrant marine life.
Along the way, we stumbled upon remnants of bygone eras, silent witnesses to the maritime history that unfolds along this coastline. The skeletal remains of old shipwrecks served as haunting reminders of the treacherous waters that ships once navigated. Each rusted fragment held a story, igniting our imaginations and filling us with a sense of awe for the relentless power of the sea.
After trekking for a while, our gaze was drawn to a majestic structure perched upon a cliff—the Pachena Point Lighthouse. This historic beacon has guided countless sailors to safety since its construction in 1907. As we admired its sturdy architecture, we couldn’t help but appreciate the vital role it played in the past, warding off the perils of the treacherous coastline.
Leaving the lighthouse behind, we returned to the shoreline, tracing the sandy path that led us to our first campsite at Michigan Creek. Nestled right on the beach, our campsite offered a front-row seat to one of nature’s most spectacular shows—the setting sun as it dipped through the marine layer standing several miles off shore. Click on thumbnail to view image
The next day of our journey along the WCT gave us our first encounter was a unique feature of this trail—a hand-pulled cable car suspended over the magnificent Klanawa River. Picture this: a sturdy metal contraption, powered by human strength, swaying gently as it transported us across the river below. This ingenious cable car system, designed to withstand the forces of nature, allowed us to traverse the river and continue our journey.
Leaving the exhilaration of the cable car behind, we found ourselves immersed once again in the enchanting old-growth rainforest. Walking amidst towering cedar trees, their branches reaching for the sky, we were humbled by the sheer majesty of these ancient giants. Their trunks, adorned with patches of vibrant moss, stood as silent sentinels, guardians of a world teeming with life. The rainforest floor beneath our feet was a tapestry of lush greenery and dense undergrowth, creating a vibrant carpet. Rays of sunlight pierced through the thick canopy and marine layer mist above, casting a dappled etherial glow upon the forest floor.
Navigating the trail through the rainforest presented its own unique challenges. Sections of the path became gnarled and twisted, adorned with massive tree roots that seemed to have a life of their own. In other areas we had to cross over obstacles on fallen trees balancing our heavy packs. These natural obstacles demanded our attention and care, requiring us to carefully pick our way through the labyrinth of roots and forest debris. It was a test of balance and agility, reminding us that nature is both beautiful and untamed. We were fortunate that there was no rain which would have made these sections of trail even more difficult to negotiate.
To conquer the changes in elevation as the trail meandered between the shoreline and the rainforest, we encountered long flights of stairs that ascended and descended with determination. As we ascended, we reveled in the breathtaking views of the coastline and the rhythmic crash of waves against the rugged cliffs.
Just when we thought our day on the West Coast Trail couldn’t get any more captivating, we stumbled upon a breathtaking natural wonder that left us spellbound—the mesmerizing Tsusiat Falls. This cascading marvel, nestled within the untamed wilderness, is a sight to behold.
After a day filled with physical challenges and sensory wonders, we arrived at our next campsite. After a long day, we eagerly set up camp,and prepared a sumptuous dinner then off to sleep . Click on thumbnail to view image
The next morning, as we hiked along the shoreline sections, our eyes widened with awe as we gazed upon the vast and breathtaking views from the edges of towering cliffs. The world seemed to stretch out before us, with the endless expanse of the ocean merging seamlessly with the boundless sky.
Our excitement grew as we caught sight of our first colossal sea stacks rising proudly from the turbulent waters. These ancient geological formations, sculpted by the ceaseless forces of wind and waves, stood as silent sentinels of nature’s artistic prowess.
Our journey led us to the Nitinat Narrows, a place where the path was interrupted by the wide outlet to the sea. Here, we had to board a shuttle boat that ferried us across the shimmering waters, offering a momentary respite from our trek. On the opposite shore, we were met with a delightful surprise—a local run informal cafe offering freshly caught Dungeness crab, a local delicacy that delighted our taste buds. The succulent meat, delicately sweet and brimming with oceanic freshness, was a true testament to the richness of the region’s culinary offerings.
Continuing our adventure, we arrived at the Carmanah Lighthouse, a beacon that has guided mariners since its establishment in 1891. This historic structure, perched upon a rugged cliff, offered us a glimpse into the maritime heritage of the West Coast. From the vantage point of the lighthouse, we witnessed the interplay of land and sea, marveling at the untamed beauty that lay before us.
Leaving the lighthouse behind, we embarked on a brief walk back down to the beach. Here, another delightful surprise awaited us—an iconic establishment known as Chez Monique’s, nestled near the beach access. This informal restaurant, situated on a First Nations reserve, has been a beloved stopping point for West Coast Trail hikers for decades. The sizzle of grilled cheeseburgers and the clinking of glasses filled the air as we indulged in this well-deserved treat, savoring the flavors and camaraderie that filled the space.
With satisfied bellies and renewed energy, we resumed our journey, passing by more striking sea stacks that punctuated the coastline. The beauty of these natural formations, rising majestically from the foamy waves, was a reminder of the indomitable spirit of nature.
As the day drew to a close, we found ourselves making camp on the sandy beach next to one of the many creeks emptying onto the ocean. Eager to refresh ourselves, we braved the chilly waters for a revitalizing swim. As night fell, we gathered around a roaring fire, its warmth and crackling flames casting dancing shadows upon the sand. In a stroke of ingenuity, Eric and Jonathon took heated rocks from the fire, creating a makeshift foot bath that brought much-needed warmth and relaxation to our tired feet. It was a moment of shared bliss. Click on thumbnail to view image
Today the trail led us mostly along the shoreline, immersing us in a thrilling array of activities. We embraced the spirit of the trail as we engaged in chasm jumping, carefully leaping from one rock to another, testing our agility and balance. Boulder hopping became second nature as we ventured further along the shoreline, each leap a dance with the ancient rocks that lay strewn in our path. We marveled at the sheer size and grandeur of the sea stacks that rose majestically from the ocean’s embrace. These towering sentinels stood as testaments to the indomitable power of nature, their rugged beauty captivating our senses.nAmongst the rugged cliffs, we encountered sea caves, mysterious and alluring. One cave, in particular, beckoned us with its vastness, inviting us to explore its depths on foot. Stepping into the cool darkness, we found ourselves in a hidden world, shaped by the relentless forces of the sea.
Arriving at our final campsite near Thrasher Cove, we were greeted by a breathtaking location on the beach. With the sound of crashing waves as our backdrop, we set up camp, creating a temporary haven in the wilderness. Eager to get into the ocean, we shed our hiking gear and leaped into the refreshing waters for a rejuvenating swim. The coolness of the ocean enveloped us, invigorating our bodies and rejuvenating our spirits.
As the sun began its descent towards the horizon, casting a warm glow across the landscape, we gathered around a roaring fire once again. The crackling flames danced in sync with our laughter and conversation, creating an atmosphere of camaraderie and relaxation. This final evening on the trail allowed us to reflect on the incredible journey we had undertaken, to relish in the memories that would forever be etched in our hearts. Click on thumbnail to view image
The final day of journey along the West Coast Trail dawned, and with a mix of excitement and a tinge of nostalgia, we rose early to embark on the last leg of our adventure towards Port Renfrew. Leaving the sandy beach behind, the trail led us uphill, guiding us back into the rainforest. As we ascended, the lush greenery enveloped us, providing a refreshing respite from the sun’s warm rays. Towering cedar trees and a dense undergrowth painted a vibrant tapestry of nature’s bounty. Along the trail, we encountered several derelict donkey engines, silent witnesses to the logging history that had shaped this land. These remnants stood as humble reminders of the human endeavors that had once echoed through these ancient forests.
Upon reaching the Gordon River, we paused to catch our breath and reflect on the incredible journey we had undertaken. Gathering together, we immortalized the moment with a group photo, a testament to the bonds forged amidst the trials and triumphs of the West Coast Trail. While we waited for the ferry shuttle that would transport us to Port Renfrew, we reveled in the shared stories and laughter that filled the air, savoring the camaraderie that had blossomed on the trail.
Port Renfrew, our final destination, held its own unique allure and history. Nestled on the rugged shores of the Pacific, this coastal community has long been a hub for logging and fishing industries. Over the years, it has transformed into a cherished destination for outdoor enthusiasts, drawn by its natural beauty and the undeniable magnetism of the wild.
Disembarking from the ferry shuttle at the landing, we loaded ourselves and our gear into the back of a pickup truck, embracing the laid-back charm of this small coastal town. To commemorate our unforgettable trek, we decided to indulge in a well-deserved feast at a local eatery. Fish and Chips was the perfect choice, a culinary delight that showcased the region’s bountiful seafood. And what better way to celebrate the culmination of our adventure than with a cold, crisp beer, perfectly chilled to quench our thirst and enhance the flavors of our meal. With every bite and sip, we toasted to the memories we had created, grateful for the moments of pure bliss that had unfolded along the trail. Click on thumbnail to view image