We met up with Kevin in Santiago and the flew to Punta Arenas to start our Patagonia adventure. After several days there we travelled North to Torres del Paine NP and the beginning of our backpacking trip.
The O-Trek is not quite as well-known as its sibling hike, the W-Trek. At a total 76 miles (122 km) long, the O-Trek is a longer, harder, and more remote hike. It circles counterclockwise around the northside of the central Cordillera del Paine, adding three stages to the W-Trek’s five and linking the endpoints of the W. In addition to all the big sights of the W-Trek—Valle del Frances, Lago Nordenskjöld, the Torres—hikers on the O-Trek experience hidden gems like Rio and Lago Paine, Dickson Glacier and the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, Los Perros Glacier, and an up-close view of Glacier Grey. The trail leads through areas more undeveloped and further away from civilization than on the W-Trek. The climb over John Gardner Pass, for example, is tough and often wind and snow swept, even in the Patagonian summer. Those who tackle the O-Trek don’t need to be mountaineering experts, but some experience with multi-day treks is a big plus; a willingness to power through the tough spots is a must. Click on thumbnail to view images
Day 1
The counterclockwise trek begins in the Las Torres Base Area and heads north towards Campamento Serón. After crossing a small river bed and completing a short ascent, you will be rewarded with your first viewpoint, this one of Paine Massif and the lakes below. After almost two hours, the trail begins its descent to the Rio Paine, which you will follow all the way to camp. Click on thumbnail to view images
Day 2
Stage 2 is one of the longer stages on the O-Trek, but is one of the easiest. There is one climb about 30 minutes into the day’s hike. Views are excellent from this trail. Halfway to Dickson you’ll pass the Coiron ranger station, where you will have to sign in. Dickson glacier will come into view as you near the end of a stage. As you crest the final climb, you will be greeted with a panoramic view of the glacier, lake, and Dickson lodge. Click on thumbnail to view images
Day 3
This day boasts some of the most beautiful views of the mountains of Torres del Paine. You will follow the river the whole day, starting with an ascent through forested areas. About an hour into the hike, there is a view of the backside of the massif; shortly after that, you will come to the Mirador Valle de los Perros, which gives you an unparalleled view of the valley. After this the trail flattens out until the final climb of the day, which offers another wonderful viewpoint of glacier and lake. Click on thumbnail to view images
Day 4
This day is the hardest stage of the O-Trek. You finish the climb you started the day before, which means you start with a steep ascent. Forest gives way to clear ground, leaving you exposed to snow and wind. The summit of Paso John Gardner is windy and exposed, but right after there is an excellent bird’s-eye view of Glacier Grey. Descent is as steep as the ascent, but thankfully there was forest cover soon. You eventually hit Campamento Paso, then have to cross two high bridges before getting to Refugio Grey. Click on thumbnail to view images
Day 5
On todays hike imposing glacier ice walls rises steeply from the lake, occasionally dropping pieces of ice into the water below. You will be accompanied by floating icebergs calved from the glacier and treated to a number of excellent lookout points near the trail. Then there is a walk along Lago Skottsberg before turning due north and aiming yourself towards Campamento Italiano. Click on thumbnail to view images
Day 6
Hiking up to Campamento Britanico high above the trail is the Glacier Frances, which frequently causes small avalanches that echo throughout the valley. The trail winds its way through forest and exposed terrain, allowing occasional views of Rio Frances. Passing and dropping packs at Campamento Britanico we headed up to Mirador Britanico and its great views. Click on thumbnail to view images
Day 7
We returned back down the valley through Campmento Frances then the hiked along the milky white waters of Lago Nordenskjöld all the way to the Las Torres Base Area with some pretty regular, but not exhausting, up and down hiking. Your first view as you leave the refugio is “the horns,” the jagged peaks of Los Cuernos. You will only need a few hours to make it to Hotel Las Torres, Click on thumbnail to view images
Days 8 & 9
The next day started off with a steep elevation gain before reaching Refugio Chileno where we camped for the night in the pouring rain. The next day things got challenging, as there were some areas with loose rock which you will have to scramble over. Before reaching the Torres the weather started to clear and our views of the towers were great even with some cloud cover making the climb all worth it. We then hiked back to Hotel Las Torres for a well deserved rest and to dry out our gear. Click on thumbnail to view images