After a quick stay in Redding, California, we set out on Highway 299, a scenic route that serves as a vital artery connecting the inland valleys to the Pacific Coast. Known locally as the “Trinity Highway,” this route has a storied history, originally carved out during the Gold Rush to link mining communities nestled in the rugged mountains. Today, it remains one of Northern California’s most picturesque drives, weaving through the Trinity Alps, past sparkling rivers, and into dense forests that herald the approach to the coast. By mid-afternoon, we arrived in Fortuna and checked into the Riverwalk RV Park, a cozy base with convenient access to the natural wonders of Humboldt Redwoods State Park. Nestled in the heart of Northern California’s famed redwood country, the park is home to the largest remaining contiguous old-growth redwood forest in the world, a breathtaking reminder of a prehistoric era when these giants blanketed much of the Pacific Coast.
The next morning, we were up early, eager to explore. Driving the renowned Avenue of the Giants was an awe-inspiring experience. This 31-mile scenic route winds through ancient groves of towering coast redwoods, some stretching over 300 feet high and more than 2,000 years old. The filtered sunlight danced through the canopy, creating an almost cathedral-like atmosphere. Along the way, we stopped at several marked trails and picnic areas, where the sheer scale of these trees left us humbled. These redwoods, part of the tallest tree species on Earth, were once threatened by logging, but conservation efforts led to the establishment of Humboldt Redwoods State Park in 1921, preserving over 53,000 acres of pristine forest.
One of the highlights of our visit was the park’s Visitor Center, which offered a fascinating glimpse into the history and ecology of the redwoods. The exhibits showcased everything from the tree’s life cycle to the efforts of early conservationists, like those in the Save the Redwoods League, who fought to protect these natural wonders in the early 20th century. We were particularly intrigued by the stories of early loggers and settlers, whose lives were deeply intertwined with this remarkable landscape. The center’s interactive displays and knowledgeable staff made it an enriching stop, adding context to the beauty surrounding us.
After a full day exploring the Redwood State Park, we headed north to the charming town of Ferndale, renowned for its beautifully preserved Victorian architecture. Established in 1852, Ferndale quickly grew as a center for dairy farming, earning the nickname “Cream City” for its butter and cream production, which were shipped to markets far and wide. Its historic Main Street, lined with colorful 19th-century buildings, offers a window into a bygone era and has been designated a California Historic Landmark. The town’s meticulous preservation efforts have made it a popular filming location and a favorite for visitors seeking a taste of old-fashioned Americana.
We capped off our visit with a fantastic dinner at Tuya’s Mexican restaurant, where the flavors were as vibrant as the welcoming atmosphere. Satisfied and content, we made our way back to our RV, reflecting on a day filled with natural beauty and small-town charm. Click on thumbnail to view images
The next morning, we traveled a short distance south to Garberville, California, and checked into the Benbow KOA. With the whole day ahead of us, we set out for Shelter Cove and its dramatic Black Sand Beach. Shelter Cove, perched on the rugged coastline of California’s Lost Coast, is a secluded seaside community that offers a glimpse into unspoiled wilderness. The area was named for the natural harbor that once attracted early settlers and fishing communities but later became an escape for those seeking solitude and connection with nature.
The Black Sand Beach, with its striking dark pebbles and powerful waves, serves as one of the trailheads for the Lost Coast Trail, a legendary backpacking route. Spanning approximately 25 miles, the trail runs through the King Range National Conservation Area, a region where the mountains meet the ocean with such abruptness that no roads could ever be built. This inaccessibility has left the Lost Coast largely untouched, making it one of California’s last truly wild places. Hiking here requires preparation, but even a short walk along the beach provides a sense of the trail’s remote beauty and the dramatic forces of nature at play. The area is a haven for wildlife, including sea lions, otters, and countless seabirds, adding to its allure.
Another fascinating stop in Shelter Cove is the Cape Mendocino Lighthouse, originally constructed in 1868 to guide ships along California’s perilous coastline. Decommissioned in the 1950s, the lighthouse was relocated to Shelter Cove in the 1990s, where it now stands as a testament to maritime history. The restored structure offers visitors a glimpse into the challenges of navigating the “Graveyard of the Pacific,” a region notorious for its treacherous waters and dense fog. Standing near the lighthouse, we were struck by the sweeping views of the ocean and the rugged cliffs, a scene that beautifully encapsulates the remote charm of the Lost Coast.
We wrapped up our day with a memorable meal at the Gyppo Ale Mill, a welcoming brewpub that perfectly captures the essence of Shelter Cove. Known for its craft beers brewed on-site and locally inspired menu, the Gyppo Ale Mill offered the ideal setting to relax and recount the day’s adventures. The fresh seafood and hearty dishes paired wonderfully with their small-batch ales, and the friendly atmosphere made it a fitting finale to our exploration of this captivating region. Click on thumbnail to view images
