Leaving behind the sunlit vineyards and mesmerizing light installations of Paso Robles, we set our sights further south, bound for Santa Barbara. Nestled between the mountains and the sea, this coastal gem offered more than just postcard-perfect views—it promised a reunion with my old high school friend Rick Hanney and his wife, Lynn. After maneuvering our RV into the snug confines of the Santa Barbara Sunrise RV Park, we met up with Rick and Lynn for a delightful dinner, catching up on years of stories and finalizing plans for the next day’s adventure to Channel Islands National Park.
The following morning, we drove the short stretch to Ventura, where we boarded an Island Packers ferry destined for Santa Cruz Island, the largest and most biologically diverse of the Channel Islands. Known as the “Galapagos of North America,” this national park encompasses five islands that protect unique ecosystems and human history dating back thousands of years. The Chumash people lived here for millennia, crafting plank canoes and thriving on the abundant marine life. The islands were later used for ranching, which left its mark on the landscape before conservation efforts returned them to their natural state.
The journey through the harbor began smoothly, but as we reached the open ocean, the winds picked up, and the swells grew. Just as we began bracing ourselves for a rough crossing, the captain announced a rare sighting ahead. Following the trail of frenzied seabirds, we arrived at a breathtaking scene—a feeding frenzy involving as many as 21 humpback whales. These majestic creatures breached and lunged through the water, drawing dolphins and seabirds to the feast. It was a wildlife spectacle unlike anything we’d ever seen, a half-hour show of nature’s raw power and beauty.
Eventually, we reached Scorpion Ranch, our entry point to Santa Cruz Island. Once a bustling sheep ranch, the area now serves as a gateway to the island’s pristine hiking trails and unique wildlife.
From Scorpion Ranch, we set off on the Cavern Point Loop Trail, a route that skirts the island’s rugged coastline and offers jaw-dropping views of the Pacific Ocean crashing against the sheer cliffs below. The trail’s vantage points were awe-inspiring, with the vast blue expanse stretching to the horizon and seabirds soaring on the breeze. As we paused to soak in the scenery, we had an unexpected encounter with one of the island’s most famous residents—the diminutive Island Fox.
Found only on the Channel Islands, the Island Fox is a conservation success story. Descended from mainland gray foxes that arrived thousands of years ago, they evolved into a smaller species perfectly suited to their isolated environment. By the late 1990s, their numbers had plummeted due to predation by invasive golden eagles, but a concerted recovery effort involving captive breeding and habitat restoration has brought the foxes back from the brink of extinction. Now, these curious and fearless creatures roam the islands freely, and spotting one felt like witnessing nature’s resilience firsthand.
From Cavern Point, we continued along the trail to Potato Harbor, a secluded inlet framed by dramatic cliffs and turquoise waters. The harbor’s name might not conjure images of grandeur, but its untouched beauty left us speechless. We lingered there, captivated by the contrast of the rocky shoreline against the vibrant hues of the ocean, before making our way back to Scorpion Ranch.
When our ferry arrived, we boarded for a much calmer return trip across the channel, the memory of the morning’s rough seas now a distant blur. Back in Ventura, we made our way to Andria’s Seafood, a beloved local institution on the harbor. The aroma of freshly caught fish greeted us as we entered, and we indulged in a feast of perfectly prepared seafood. From buttery shrimp to flaky fish and chips, the meal was a fitting conclusion to a day filled with wonder and discovery. Click on thumbnail to view images
The next morning, Rick and Lynn picked us up for a day of exploring Santa Barbara’s many hidden gems. Our first stop was the historic Cold Spring Tavern, tucked away on the scenic Stagecoach Road. Originally established in 1868 as a stagecoach stop, this rustic tavern served as a haven for weary travelers making their way through the rugged terrain of the San Marcos Pass. Today, it’s famous for its smoky barbecue and old-world charm. While we were too early to partake in a meal, the tantalizing aroma of tri-tip sizzling on the outdoor grill lingered in the air, making it hard to leave.
Reluctantly, we headed inland to Lake Cachuma, a tranquil reservoir nestled in the rolling hills of the Santa Ynez Valley. Built in 1953 as part of the Bradbury Dam project to supply water to the region, the lake has become a recreational hub. With its shimmering waters framed by oak-studded hills, it’s a paradise for fishing, kayaking, and hiking. Standing at the marina, we marveled at the serene beauty and imagined the countless families who’ve created memories here.
From there, we ventured to Santa Ynez, a town with a rich cowboy spirit and home to the legendary Maverick Saloon. Established in 1963, the saloon has long been a gathering place for ranchers, locals, and visitors alike. Its wooden walls and classic Western vibe transported us back to an era when horses tied to hitching posts lined the streets.
Our next destination was Solvang, a picturesque village that felt like a slice of Denmark transplanted to California. Founded in 1911 by Danish immigrants, the town’s charming half-timbered buildings, windmills, and bakeries brimming with pastries exuded European allure. We wandered the cobblestone streets, popping into shops and savoring the old-world atmosphere before enjoying a delightful lunch of Danish specialties.
The day’s grand finale took us to the wineries that make this region so renowned. After visiting a few, we ended up at the Carhartt Family Wines tasting room in Los Olivos. A family-run operation, Carhartt prides itself on small-batch, handcrafted wines produced with a personal touch. Sitting on their cozy patio with a glass of velvety Syrah in hand, we reflected on the day’s journey and toasted to good friends and good wine.
As the sun dipped low, we enjoyed a delicious dinner, savoring our last evening with Rick and Lynn. The following morning, we bid farewell to Santa Barbara and set off for Oceanside, where we would spend the winter at the Paradise by the Sea RV Resort surrounded by family. Our time in Santa Barbara was a blend of history, beauty, and heartfelt connections—a perfect prelude to the holiday season ahead. Click on thumbnail to view images
